They are ceramic meaning that you will put an end to that horrible black dust. each time I change my pads and discs, I keep meaning to do a photo record and always forget! maybe someone else has some photos they can post.īy the way, if you are replacing the pads, then I suggest using Akebono pads. ![]() It is not a job for a first-timer unless you have someone with you with the experience. The job is not difficult if you are confident in your mechanical ability and have the right tools. Remember the little torx headed screws on each of the discs must be put back along with a sensor on one side each of front and rear.įinally, put the wheels back on, re-connect the battery and remove the cotton wrapping from the master cylinder (if the wrapping is damp, it means that fluid has overflowed from winding the pistons back - just wipe it all dry, especially the body work underneath the cylinder) If it has had considerable use, then the friction material will have made a channel in the drum which acts as a lock. one of the reasons the rear disc is difficult is that the aux brake mechanism is in there - it is in fact an old fashioned drum brake. Be very careful if you are tempted to use heat - there is a wheel bearing in behind the disc. If you can get a large puller, then it will be straight forward, otherwise you will have to perservere with tapping it off. Now, I will bet you that the rear disc will be a pig to take off. Lever the single piston all the way back and put in new pads, remembering to fit the anti-squeel plates and paste. With this one, the caliper must be removed with the pads in place. The 350 and 500 though have the newer Mercedes single piston caliper. There are three types of brake caliper on the rear - two will be the same as the front in design, ie they will have a piston either side of the disc, and their removal is the same as the front ones. Make sure that each pin 'clicks' into place. Replace spring clip by driving in the pins from the rear. Replace the sensor wire on one of the pads with a new one that will b e with the set of new pads.ġ7. If you do just one, the other will pop out.ġ6. BOTH PISTONS MUST BE WOUND BACK TOGETHER. ![]() DO NOT USE A SCREW DRIVER TO WIND BACK THE PISTONS. Leave it there, and using the old pad you had in place on the other side, firmly lever back the pistons so the new pad will fit in. Retrieve the old pads and slide one back in as it was, and using the other end on as a lever, put it on the other side and again firmly lever back both pistons until they are level with the caliper allowing the new pad to slide in. You will find that the new pads will not slide in. Libverally spread some anti-squeel paste on the back and edges of the new pad steel backing plate (do not get any onto the pad surface) and refit the anti-squeel plates.ġ5. Make sure you use some Loctite on the caliper bolts and do them up TIGHT.ġ4. Smear a film of copper grease on the hub face before replacing the new disc. fit the new disc by following the above steps in reverse. If not, puersuade it with a judicial low of a large hammer.ġ3. If you are lucky, the disc will pull straight off. There is a small torx head screw holding the disc to the hub. Rest the removed caliper on the stand you have ready and move away from the disc.ġ1. These bolts are fitted with Loctite, so they will be tough to und0)ġ0. Behind the caliper there are two large bolts holding it to the hub (18mm heads, or 17, I cannot remember). Get a stand (a large paint can is good) that will fit behind the disc with the top flat just under the caliper - this is to rest the caliper on after the next step.ĩ. ![]() Remove the anti-squeel plates and put them all to one side for now.Ĩ. On one side of the car there will be a sensor from pad to a locator on the hub. using a large screwdriver - force the pads open a bit - wedge the driver inbetween the disc and pad backing plate and GENTLY but FIRMLY ease the pads off the disc.Ħ. Keep these and the spring clip in a safe place.ĥ. Drive out the two pad retaining pins, using a small drift from the front. Blow/pressure wash off the dust for convenience.Ĥ. Jack up and solidly support car at all four corners on a flat surface. Put a large wrap of cotton cloth under the brake master cylinder.Ģ. (my apologies for plagarizing and doing a cut and paste into this thread)ġ. Hal Adams instructions from the brake thread. The brake thread to go along with the brake pdf's.
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